Egypt’s Secret Gem: The Siwa Oasis

The Siwa Oasis is a mystical and magical town, a haven of palm trees, natural springs, unspoiled desert and a place that is so authentic and untouched by mass tourism that it will leave you speechless.

It carries such a tangible presence that you instantly feel ushered in and welcomed home. A place to rest, relax and recover while being blown away by the amount of soul-filling adventure that these lands offer to the delight of the whole family. This is a place not to be missed and a place you’ll never want to leave.  

How to get there

Just getting to Siwa is quite the mission and probably one of the reasons so many travelers leave it off their Egypt itinerary. The Oasis is about a 10 hour drive from Cairo and sits 50km from the Egypt-Libyan boarder.

Our friends in Siwa organised a private minibus which picked us in Cairo at 11pm and had us arriving into Siwa just after 8am. There are public buses that go back and forth and pleanty of agencies you can organise your trip though.

Travelling during the night meant there were less stops than during the day and one night of our accommodation budget was absorbed into transfer fees. Something to note is that there are a few military stops along the way where you’ll be required to show your passport and the officers will check through the van. Thankfully we weren’t required to get out of the van which meant the girls slept through.

Where we stayed

There are pleanty of accommodation options in Siwa; from guest houses and lodges to airbnb accommodation. We stayed close to the Shali Fortress in a home built out of mud and salt and it was one of the most incredible homes we have ever stayed in.

Our little home that we spent three weeks in will forever hold a special place in our hearts. Unfortunately I can’t share the details of exactly where we stayed as it is a private residence.

A note on Siwan Culture

People from all over the world are drawn to Siwa Oasis because of the natural beauty and mineral rich, healing properties found in the desert, salt lakes and springs but it is the the Siwan locals that make them stay.

Siwan culture looks very different to the rest of Egypt and given its geographical isolation has remained protected and mostly unchanged. The locals live a very healthy life and one of absolute care and kindness towards each other- locals and tourists alike. The Siwan people are considered an extension of the North African indigenous Berber culture, known as Amazigh. They speak a foreign language, a local dialect of Tamasight infused with Arabic.

While staying in Siwa we had the absolute honour of being invited to a local Siwi wedding. It was a breath taking experience, one that we will treasure and reflect on for years to come. You can read about that experience here.

What to do

Hold onto your hats because if you thought that the Siwa Oasis was just sipping tea beneath swaying palm trees and soaking in hot springs you’d be wrong (although there is a lot of that too). It is full of surprising and stunning places to visit and things to do.

Salt Lakes

I have never in my life experienced anything like the salt lakes of Siwa. Brilliant blue-green hues shimmering under the harsh desert sun. The contrast between the vivid colours of the water and the arid, sandy surroundings creating a breath-taking scene.

From the edge of the Western Desert and just outside Siwa are salt water pools of different shapes and sizes in an area that is both a tourist destination and mining area. Did you know that in 2017 Siwa was recognised as a global medical and environmental tourism destination? The oasis lands and salt lakes are rich in detoxifying and healing minerals that are beneficial for those suffering from various diseases.

Other than the cool health benefits the 95% salt lakes creates such boyucy that it is impossible to sink. Totally weightless. Totally effortless. It is divine.

Whatever you do don’t get the salt in your eyes or mouth it will BURN. We visited the salt lakes in November so the water was a tad chilly. Afterwards make sure you head to one of the many hot springs to soak in and wash all that salt off!

Hot and Cold Springs

There are more than 200 springs in the oasis some are cold water and others are hot water all varying in size. Many of the hotels or ‘camps’ around Siwa have natural spring pools built into the architecture of their premises and you can gain entry for a small fee.

Our favourite place was Almaza Hot Spring where the water is delightfully hot! This one is especially welcoming after a dip in the cold salt lakes. You can also enjoy food and drink at the cafe on site.

Cleopatra’s pool is a cold spring on the outskirts of town and one that we enjoyed visiting multiple times. The girls and Tom enjoyed jumping into the water but I personally didn’t feel comfortable, even wearing a cover over my swimwear, choosing to enjoy a drink at one of the surrounding cafes.

Dinner in the desert

Our incredible friend, a Siwan local, Adel, took us into the desert and arranged a breath-taking, truely mystical and magical dinner. Surrounded by candle light and hidden under a brilliant star-y sky we enjoyed a home cooked Siwan feast with the best of friends.

If the only thing you did in the Siwa Oasis is head into the desert to watch the sunset, followed by dinner, it would be a thousand percent worth it. You just can’t describe such an unforgettable experience. Sat in the middle of the Great Sand Sea, the quietude of the desert, soft whispers of the wind and the expansive night sky.

Sahara Safari

With an area of approximately 72 000 sq km straddling Egypt and Libya, the Great Sand Sea is one of the worlds largest dune fields. Siwa sits to the eastern side of the sea and is therefore a great base to explore from. As previously mentioned, if you can, make sure to organise a dinner under the stars. While your at it take a 4WD safari where you can do some sand boarding, fossil hunting and soaking in any of the many isolated springs.

4WD in the Great Sand Sea

Ok! If you want some serious fun then do not miss the adrenaline-inducing roller coaster of a 4WD safari in the Great Sand Sea. Navigating the slopes and valleys of the dunes is no joke. There is something absolutely mesmerising about vertically racing up the sand and sliding down the other side.

Our guide Adel was an expert driver and knew the best spots to take us to. In our few days spent in the desert we only ever saw one other group of travellers. Absolute magic!

Heading into the desert requires more than just a good driver, it is essential your guide knows the land and local customs and laws to gain entry into the Great Sand Desert. Prior to our trip Adel organised all the correct paperwork necessary from local authorities, police and army officials.

Adel was the very best guide and there is no one else we would head into the Sahara with. He organised everything including sandboarding, desert diners, fossil hunting and so much more! You can find Adel on instagram as @adel_mansour81

Sand boarding

An activity that is unmissable while in Egypt is to surf the giant dunes of the Great Sand Sea. It is probably some of the best sandboarding in the entire world.

Let me tell you that this is no walk in the park. Sandboarding is exhausting, challenging but oh so rewarding. We laughed until we cried as we tested our limits flying down the dunes receiving mouthfuls of sand when we inevitably stacked it. Thankfully the sand is super soft and those hikes to the top of the sand dunes are totally worth it for the spectacular view!

Fossil Hunting

Coral in the middle of the Sahara desert?! Sand dollars too?! As unbelievable as it sounds there is an ancient seabed where you can carefully walk through and find fossils from thousands of years ago. It was mind blowing and we could have spent hours here looking for treasure!

Pottery

Creating keepsakes and stunning homewares while in Siwa will be something that I am so thankful we did and will treasure forever. There is something so delightful about creating with your hands and getting messy. It was particularly special getting to create our wares on a traditional potter wheel where we had to use our feet to move the wheel (hello coordination). We spent many afternoons moulding, perfecting and imperfection special cups, vases and bowls.

Siwa Pottery School Terracotta can be found in the Shali and comes highly recommended by us. If you don’t have time to make your own ceramics stop by the studio anyway and pick up something from their gallery.

You can follow @terracotta_siwa_pottery_school on instagram.

Explore the Shali Fortress

In the very centre of Siwa is the Shali Fortress, a series of buildings, corridors and doorways built from salt and rock. Unfortunately in 1926, three days of rain caused incredible damage to the Shali with many of its inhabitance leaving the fortress in favour of more modern day homes.

Since then foreigners and Egyptians are working to repair and renovate the fortress, some of the buildings are even now open to stay in. We were fortunate to spend our three weeks in such accommodations!

Many people visiting the area enjoy exploring the remains of this 13th century mud-brick fortress. It is an ‘out of this world’ experience. Follow the pathways and climb the stairs that will reward you with a spectacular view of the surround oasis.

Siwi Cooking

Some of the most delicious food we have ever tasted was right here in Siwa. Our dear friend Fahmi came once a week and cooked us a meal with enough food to last us a few days. He would head to the market before hand, arriving with fresh, local produce. Fahmi was excellent at involving the kids, teaching them not only traditional Siwi dishes but also how to traditionally cook them. This became a highlight of our week, wondering what yummy foods Fahmi would cook for us!

World Schooling

We first heard about Siwa through the worldschooling community. A movement that believes there is no greater education then giving our children the opportunity to experience and interact with the world around them. This has given us the opportunity to make life long friends, meet incredible people and get connected to communities living far off-the-beaten path.

Through worldschooling we connected with a family living life in the Siwa Oasis who organised a facilitator for a couple of hours, three days a week. This gave our girls the opportunity to connect with other children while experiencing some incredible local activity. The girls participated in street art, pottery, horse riding through the desert, sand art, bee keeping and so much more.

Truely Siwa is one of the worlds most delightful, precious and inspiring destinations. A place where time ceases to matter as you loose yourself in the stunning natural beauty and mineral rich lands. I never could have imagined the connection and love we found in the Siwa Oasis and look forward to one day returning.

Check-out our other posts about our experiences in the Siwa Oasis ‘How a tribal wedding in Africa humbled me’ and ‘The call of the Oasis’.

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