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Can I be honest? The type of travel we love is adventurous and off-the-beaten path experiences. We love destinations of outstanding natural beauty that challenge us and provide rest. This often means the ocean, wildlife and nature.

Egypt is not exactly that BUT once we had made the decision to head to the Siwa Oasis (which was one of the most incredible experiences ever- more on that soon) we decided it would be worth spending some time to learn about and immerse ourselves in the history of this country.

NOTE: There are pleanty of blogs with incredible information on what to do in Luxor. This is our honest review of what we did and what we would do differently.

Our first four nights in Egypt were spent in Marsa Alam on the Red Sea. I could never have imagined that the harsh realities of desert life, the heat, the dirt and barrenness could be replaced by such incredible colour, wonder and delight just beneath the surface of the Red Sea. If you love to dive or snorkel then the Red Sea offers some of the most incredible underwater experiences on the planet!

Luxor

Luxor is know as the world’s greatest open-air museum and it truely is a must-visit destination when visiting Egypt.

You don’t have to be a die hard historian and lover of ‘old things’ to appreciate this place. It is a humbling and mind blowing destination as you consider the life lived here thousands of years ago and the influence it has had on present day life.

Where we stayed?

We stayed four nights on the West Bank of Luxor and I can’t recommend this area enough. If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Luxor and find an oasis to retreat to after a long day of sight seeing, then consider staying at The Royal Nile Villa. The highlight of this apartment was the view of the Nile and the pool which was a welcome relief in the sweltering Egyptian temperatures (even in Autumn).

How to get around?

Usually we like to independently travel but we chose to do things differently in Egypt. Unfortunately Egypt is known for its culture of hustle and scamming so we decided to pay a bit more for the comfort and security of private transportation and guided tours.

Don’t panic though, its all very easy to do. We booked transport and tours when we arrived at our accommodation which made things super easy.

What to do?

Three days isn’t nearly enough to cover the magnitude of things to do in Luxor but for us it felt a good amount of time. We had a fairly jam-packed itinerary and were extremely thankful that our accommodation had a pool to cool off in and relax at the end of a long day.

Day 1

Hot Air Balloon Ride

After a long travel day from Marsa Alam the day before, we would have loved nothing more than a sleep in, but alas, adventure awaits.

If you want to go on a hot air balloon ride then make sure you book it for your first day. They are often cancelled (weather pending) and we heard stories of people trying day after day and missing out.

We nearly missed our ride because our alarm didn’t go off! Thankfully a bang at the door at 5:30am announced that our driver had arrived which sent us into a mild panic trying to get ready to immediately leave.

There are only two flights a day, one before and one after sunset. We chose the latter because it was more affordable and a 3:30am wake-up would have exhausted us all.

The experience was thrilling and the view of Egypts ancient capital high above the ground was breathtaking. It truely was a once in a life-time experience

TIPS

Check the weather forecast. I imagined an early morning ride would be cold but it most definitely was not. Egyptian heat is no joke so check the weather prior to flying.
The hot-air balloon team will expect a tip before you get out of the basket at the end so make sure you’re carrying some small Egyptian notes.
Take some snacks with you, especially if you’re travelling with kids.
Be prepared for a hectic beginning. We were a little unprepared for the chaos of actually getting into the basket after they had inflated the balloon.

Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple

These ancient Egyptian temples are just spectacular. You’ll absolutely want to hire a guide for both temples. Without a guide we never would have understood the significance and importance of both their construction and how they were used in ancient times.

We did an afternoon tour which was a brilliant plan as the crowds were smaller and the heat was bearable (just).

Seeing Luxor temple after dark was simply stunning as the spotlights played on the shapes and carvings.

TIPS

When hiring a guide keep in mind that it likely doesn’t include the entry fee.
Even after the sun went down it was hot so take lots of water and wear cool clothing.
The mosquitos at dusk are bad so take insect repellant.

Day 2

Valley of the Kings

Another huge day sightseeing in Luxor. I came a little more prepared this day and brought my portable fan and a lot more snacks then the day before.

Valley of the Kings is unlike anything I had ever seen or could ever have imaged. It was a huge suprise to the girls who thought it would be just another day of walking around not realising we would go deep underground into the tombs!

Valley of the Kings is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world and let me tell you, it is spectacular. Your entry fee permits you entrance into 3 tombs. You can buy extra tickets to go into more but our guide (and after doing it I agree) didn’t think it was worth it.

It is mind blowing how deep the tombs are underground. Be warned, if you think its hot outside you know nothing, the further down you go the hotter it gets. It is also quite the workout on the hike back up and out of the tomb.

TIPS

I wouldn’t buy extra tomb entrance tickets, most are very similar.
The tombs aren’t all open at one time. They rotate throughout the year. You can google online prior to your visit which tombs are open.
At the information centre you’ll have to pay for tickets to board the golf cart that take you to the tombs.
Guides aren’t allowed inside and honestly I don’t think it was worth having one for this part of our trip. It did help though with the ease of transfers and avoiding the hawkers.

Hatshepsut Temple

Not going to lie, by the time we left Valley of the Kings and headed to Hatshepsut the girls were feeling pretty over temples. It was also extremely hot, sitting at around 35 degrees celsius (even in late October) with very little breeze or shade.

It is an incredible temple in excellent condition and we appreciated the significance and history around Queen Hatshepsut-the only queen to be buried in the Valley of the Kings.

TIPS:

Security is heavy at all tourist sites so the less bags the quicker it takes to get through security (bags are scanned).
Wear clothes that cover you for cultural reasons but also because there is no shade and you will BURN.
Pack lots of snacks and water.

Day 3

Sunset Felucca

Our last morning in Luxor was spent swimming in the pool, packing, playing and doing school work. We love our slow days and they are especially essential after busy days of sightseeing. To celebrate our last night in Luxor we booked a special Felucca sunset boat ride.

The Felucca sunset rides are a popular way to see the banks of the Nile and include a delicious dinner. Unfortunately, other than meeting the two young boys who were helping their dad sail the boat, we really didn’t enjoy it.

The Nile is unfortunataely full of rubbish and after our time in Aswan following Luxor, we would have much preferred to enjoy a ride there where the water is much cleaner.

Luxor was very much a sensory overload. Incredible and mind blowing but full-on. It is an incredible destination. No where else in the world have we seen such archeological wonders. Despite the overwhelm and exhaustion at times, it was a destination that left us speechless and one we won’t soon forget.

After Luxor we headed to Aswan on a private minibus. I developed gastro on that trip and it will forever be one of the worst days. We had planned to visit Edfu as a stop over to Aswan not realising it would significantly increase our trip time from three hours to seven hours! It’s safe to say that when we finally arrived in Aswan I could have cried- in fact I may have done exactly that.

Aswan

We didn’t do any of the ‘must do’s’ in Aswan and I’d highly recommend it! There are some significant archeological sites in Aswan but we ignored them all, instead choosing to enjoy the peaceful Nile scenery, walking along the West Bank, meeting the locals and observing how they farm the land.

Aswan sits on the Nile and is much cleaner and more peaceful than Luxor. The Nubian people are so incredibly friendly and warm hearted and we immediatelv felt ourselves relax.

Where we stayed

I can’t even tell you how incredible Maghrabi’s Guest House was. It could not have been more opposite than the hustle and bustle of Luxor. Our accommodation was basic but by far my favourite place we stayed in upper Egypt. The host here is absolutely charming and you can’t help but feel as if you’ve finally stumbled into an authentic and peaceful part of Egypt.

What we did

Given how sick I was the 24 hours prior to our arrival we literally spent our entire time in Aswan at the guest house. Even if I hadn’t been so sick I wouldn’t have wanted to change a thing.

Sitting under the huge mango trees, sipping tea and eating delicious food from the onsite kitchen was heaven. The girls happily played in the sand and read their books while swinging in the hammock.

The Nile here is much cleaner than in Luxor and staying on the West Bank meant we could walk around the Nubian village and along the Nile saying hi to the locals and observing how they farm the land. While we only spent two nights here we could have definitely stayed longer.

After a quick two night stop-over in Aswan we took an early morning flight to Cairo which at the time was the quickest and cheapest mode of transport.

Cairo

Where we stayed

Don’t stay in Giza. You might get a hotel with a view of the pyramids but the area is chaotic and busy. We were prepared for the overwhelm of Cairo, expecting a busy dirty and loud city. Thankfully our friends in Siwa recommended staying at THIS stunning airbnb in Maadi, known for its leafy, quiet streets and incredible restaurants.

What we did

Let me start by saying there is so much to do in Cairo. We had three full days to squeeze in as much as possible. My tip is to prioritise the things you most want to do. By day three we were all feeling a little overwhelmed and started crossing things off our list so we could spend longer resting at home in our beautiful apartment in Maadi.

Day 1

Saqqara, Serapeum and the Red, Stepped and Bent Pyramids

This was probably our most favourite day in Cairo and we nearly didn’t do it. I just wanted to see the big pyramids but wow am I glad our tour guide insisted on taking us here!

It’s a full day so be prepared with snacks, water and lots of protective clothing (its hot and sunny).

If you want to go inside a pyramid then the Bent Pyramid is an absolute must-do. We went inside the Red Pyramid first but truely the Bent is more thrilling. There are a lot of stairs, tight spaces and narrow paths that will force you to crawl on hand and knees and you’ll feel like you’re in an Indiana Jones movie. Its definitely not for the faint of heart but is most certainly an incredible adventure.

TIPS:

A guide for Saqqara is a must.
If you’re going to enter the Bent Pyramid make sure you have a good amount of fitness.
Look into the alternative history of the Serapeum, it’s mind-blowing.

Day 2

Great Pyramids and Sphinx

The Great Pyramids in Giza are probably what I thought they would be. Busy, touristy, but no less magnificent. Seeing with your own eyes the huge sandstone pieces that have been hand cut but fit perfectly together is mind-blowing.

We ended up doing a camel ride around the pyramids. It wasn’t something we had planned, in fact if anything we had decided that we would NOT be doing this. We’d heard horror stories of people being overcharged and the animals being poorly treated.

Our experience felt fairly disappointing and along the lines of what we had been warned. Unfortunately we felt like our “trusted” guide was the person to rip us off. In hindsight we realised that we had been set up to take the camel ride despite us communicating it wasn’t something we were interested in.

The silver lining is that for the girls it was the highlight of their time in Cairo and thankfully the two camels were well fairly well treated.

The Sphinx and Great Pyramids are all fairly close together. It is outside of Cairo so including the drive time (depending on where you’re staying) you’ll likely need at least half a day to visit Giza.

Tips:

If you want to do a camel ride walk further around the pyramid and you’ll find better treated and more affordable camels.
Be prepared to barter hard for a camel ride. We got the price down to less than a half of what he initially had suggested
Don’t let the children take photos of you and your kids. You’ll be mobbed albeit feeling like a celebrity.

Day 3

Coptic Cairo and Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

We had a different guide for day three and he was a lot of fun. Coptic Cairo is fascinating with some incredible history. We leisurely enjoyed visiting ancient churches including the Hanging Church and Church of St. George as well as monasteries and the synagog .

For us it was special to see the place where Mary, Joseph and Jesus hid during their time in Egypt.

The open-air bazaar is a literal treasure trove of Egyptian culture, nicknacks and quality goods. We enjoyed getting lost in the tiny alley ways and streets while chatting with our guide.

We finished our day with a sit down traditional Egyptian meal. This was perhaps my favourite part of the day, chatting with our guide about Egyptian life and how the younger generation feels about the current state of their country and the world.

Tips

Guides want to be paid in USD or Euro.
Tipping in Egyptians pounds is fine.
We didn’t drink the water despite some people saying it is fine. We used a filtered water bottle for everything including brushing out teeth.
We had heard not to trust anyone and taken with a grain of salt this felt true. Even our trust worthy guides were always trying to make a bit more money off us.
Egypt felt WAY safer than we had been lead to believe. There are of course a lot of military checkpoints and security in all places but as our guides told us over and over it is more of a show of security for the foreigners.