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When you first begin researching Vietnam you’ll be bombarded by stunning imagery and flowery words convincing you that Vietnam is a travellers delight for lovers of nature, culture and incredible food. Look, they’re not wrong, but if you’re imagining an instagram worthy experience from beginning to end you might be a tad disappointed. For an honest review of our time in Vietnam and recommendations of must-visit places with kids (and where to avoid) continue reading.
Let me start by saying it would be difficult to see all of Vietnam, especially with kids. Less, in this case, is most definitively more. There is nothing worse than dragging exhausted, over-stimulated kids around, rushing from place to place to ‘see it all’. That’s why we decided to spend one month in Vietnam focussing only on the north.
Our itinerary began in Hoi An (after flying into Da Nang) and ended in Vietnams second largest city and capital Hanoi. This blog is packed with information so feel free to skip ahead.
1. Hoi An
We had a fairly rocky start to our time in Vietnam when we were refused entry into the country (you can read about that HERE). Thankfully all was forgiven when we arrived in the charming town of Hoi An. Known for its yellow houses, sparkling lanterns and white sandy beaches, Hoi An is a feast for the senses, bursting with colour and culture.
We loved Hoi An so much that we stayed two weeks. Soaking up the sun on the beaches and getting our fix of culture in Old Town. Check out our blog post for why Hoi An is a must visit with kids.
2. Tam Coc / Ninh Binh
Working your way north from Hoi An, take the night train from Da Nang to Ninh Binh. Trust me its a good trip. Cheaper than a flight, you’ll save money on a nights accommodation and what an adventure!
Where to stay in Tam Coc
You’ll see most everyone recommends staying in Tam Coc, that’s because Ninh Binh is more like an industrial town and landing point for people travelling to Tam Coc. In Tam Coc you’ll be surrounded by beautiful countryside but close to all the amenities and activities the area has to offer.
We stayed four nights at Tam Coc Cosy Homestay and I couldn’t recommend it enough. The local family took great care of us allowing us to check in at 8am knowing we would be weary from the night train. I don’t think I appreciated the impact all these little touches made at the time but they were an absolute blessings and made the logistics of travelling with children so much easier.
Getting around Tam Coc
The best way to see Ninh Binh is on a scooter. You can do tours, hire bicycles or get the bus but nothing is as convenient and easy as the scooter. If vou’ve not had much practice on a scooter than Tam Coc and the surrounding countryside is a great place to learn.
Things to do in Tam Coc
1. Thung Nham Bird Park
We were a little confused as to what to expect when heading here. The reviews online were mixed but we thought we’d check it out anyway. The park is about 350 hectares and is most popular for birdwatching and the caves you can walk through. It has a distinct theme park vibe when you’re walking around, with cafes and restaurants dotted throughout (although everything was shut when we were there).
The entry fee includes a boat trip around the lake to see the birds up close. The birds head back to their nests in the evening to roost, so you’ll need to get the timing right if you want to see them up close.
I don’t know if we had the wrong timing or the wrong day but this place felt almost abandoned and a bit odd. Am I glad we did it? I think so. It was kinda fun just wandering around feeling like we had the whole place to ourselves.
2. Mua Cave
Ok this one was my favourite activity we did in Tam Coc. A quick 10 minutes scooter ride from Tam Coc is Mua Cave (also known as Hang Mua) which is famously known for its viewpoint over Ninh Binh. There is a small cave at the base of the hike (hence the name) but the main reason people come here is to reach the viewpoint at the top of Mua Mountain.
There was a bit of confusion at first as we tried to understanding where the hike actually began. We soon realised you have to pay to enter the resort complex called Mua Cave Ecolodge before you can ascend the viewpoint. After paying for a scooter park and the entrance fee, we followed the path through the resort and began the hike. This climb is one of the most popular things to do in the area and for good reason.
While the climb up can be quite challenging it is well worth the effort. Make sure you take water, or some money to buy from the shop half way up, and wear a hat. In peak travel times this place is crawling with tourists but thankfully it wasn’t too busy for us. Go early to avoid the heat!
3. Hoa Lu Ancient Capital
While the history is fascinating we found the overall experience of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital to be underwhelming. There is an entrance fee and you’ll need to pay for parking. Perhaps the experience lacked a certain charm due to the chaos outside the entrance.
Parking attendants holler at you and compete against each other for your business. No matter where you attempt to park you’ll have to pay someone. We decided to park outside a cafe which promised free parking for an ice-cream, that the attendant then tripled the price for when we came to pay. I recognise the privileged position we are in but the overall feeling of constantly being ripped off or lied to was frustrating.
Also nothing was in English so unless you hired a guide you wouldn’t really understand what all the fuss is about.
4. Trang An boat ride
Trang An is stunning and worth the day out. You’ll be swept away into another world as you take in the limestone peaks surrounded by lush rainforest.
For a fee you can choose one of three boat tours that will take you to different caves and temples. The boat holds four people, plus the guide/rower who sits in the back of the boat and takes between 2-3 hours. The best part was that the boat stopped at different areas so you could get out and walk around. It is surely hard work for the elderly woman rowing us around and a tip is appreciated, if not expected, at the end of the tour.
3. Hanoi
Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is crazy, busy and loud. A total sensory overload and surprisingly we loved it.
Where to stay in Hanoi
We stayed four nights in an airbnb in the old quarter, accessed via an alleyway which meant while we were right in the centre of busy Hanoi, our accommodation was quiet. If you’re travelling with kids then make sure where you stay is an oasis free from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Getting around Hanoi
Staying in the old quarter you’ll be able to walk just about everywhere but for anything a little further afield a GRAB (taxi) is an affordable and convenient option. For transport in and out of the city book a private transfer through your accommodation. Its easy, comfortable and affordable.
Things to do in Hanoi
Honestly there is so much to do in Hanoi and a quick google search will give you a long list. Unfortunately I got quite sick here so what we were actually able to do was limited. Of the things we did do, this is our recommendation.
1. Hanoi Old Quarter
The history of old quarter is fascinating and a lot of fun to walk around. The streets are organised into different themes eg. Toys, fabrics, jewellery and silk. Id recommend just going for a wander through the area, walking up side streets and eating from one of the many food vendors on the side of the road.
The traffic is chaotic but be confident and act defensively. If you need to cross the road then slowly edge out and be confident. The scooters and cars will eventually stop or go around you.
Hanoi is sensory overload so keep in mind you might need to have a shorter day out with kids or take more breaks. This is why staying somewhere quiet with some space is a great idea to give kids time to unwind.
2. Hoan Kiem Lake
A little walk around the lake and a visit to Ngoc Son Temple is a nice thing to do. You can get up close to the embalmed turtles that once lived in Hoan Kiem Lake, placed in a box for preservation and reverence. There are some fascinating legends and history for kids to learn about.
If you’re headed to the lake, aim between Friday and Sunday. Traffic is banned in the area over the weekend and the surrounding streets become alive.
3. Water puppet show
You can’t come to Hanoi and not see a water puppet show. I dragged my unwell self out of bed for this one and I’m so glad I did. The girls loved it!
The show is performed within a pool of water, which is the stage for the water puppets. Live music plays while eight puppeteers hide behind a bamboo screen. A must do when visiting Hanoi.
4. Women’s Museum
The Women’s Museum in Hanoi was absolutely fascinating and a great insight into the role of Vietnamese women throughout history. For each of us it was humbling and insightful as we got a glimpse of the role women played in society, marriage and motherhood. Most intriguing were the exhibits focusing on the position women played during the Vietnam War.
The war only ended in 1975 and we had been talking about its history with the girls. Seeing photos made it so real. Young girls, only a little bit older than Isla, sacrificing their lives for the cause.
5. The Note Coffee
This place was just fun so its on the list of things to do. Great coffee, great food but the best thing for the girls was writing notes on stickers and plastering them all over the walls.
Literally everything in this place is covered in notes. There are a number of floors leading to different levels where you can enjoy your drink overlooking the busy Hanoi streets below. We had fun writing love notes to each other and then reading the dreams, hopes and desires written by others.
4. Halong Bay
There are a gazillon options when it comes to cruises in Halong Bay. The research was exhausting. In the end we decided we would pay a bit more for a special experience in this UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the natural wonders of the world.
Here’s the thing. I had read a lot of reviews some good and some not so good about Halong Bay. Choosing to ignore the not so good ones we booked a three night tour of the bay. I should have listened. We were so disappointed with Halong Bay. But first let me tell you what we did enjoy.
Alisa Premier Cruise
We booked the senior triple suite with a private balcony. It felt very lush and fancy inside and first impressions were good. The suite fit our budget but was probably a tad smaller than we anticipated, with a queen bed and one single bed for four people. Not to worry though, we pushed the beds together to make one big bed. It was like a giant sleepover!
The ship was fun to explore with a gym, pool (although far too cold to swim in) and open deck. It was fun to cruise along the waterways and wake up to stunning views but unfortunately we found the lack of attention to detail and poor service for this price range really disappointing.
There was also the issues of the nightly sit down meal beginning at 7:30pm and finishing at 10pm. The amount of food was impossible to consume and we felt that so much was wasted (echoed by our fellow passengers). We did enjoy the overall adventure of this experience but was it worth the money? We didn’t feel so.
Sadly we also had extremely poor weather where rain and mist made visibility low. In some ways this made the experience more magical as we quietly cruised through the water as incredible limestone towers suddenly appeared.
Things to do in Halong Bay
Part of our cruise included a number of different activities. On the full day we had in Halong Bay we boarded a smaller boat and explored the Halong Islands. We also went kayaking, took a pearl farm tour and enjoyed hiking to the top of some pretty incredible viewpoints.
Our favourite activities were the pearl farm tour and exploring Hang Sung Sot (surprise) cave, the biggest cave in Halong.
There was an opportunity to swim but the rubbish was so bad I would not have wanted my kids in the water. I know many people who have been to Halong Bay and loved it but I just couldn’t get past how terrible the pollution was. We did see efforts to clean the area and that was extremely hopeful. Perhaps the weather made things seem even more dreary.
I have heard Cat Ba is a better alternative to busy, dirty Halong and we so wished we had listened to that recommendation. For the price we paid and the overall experience we would personally have left this one off our Vietnamese itinerary.
5. What you need to know before you go
- You can absolutely not drink the water in Vietnam not even to brush your teeth so pack your water filter bottle.
- A first-aid kit is an essential item for travel and came in handy when I got really sick. Thankfully we had brought antibiotics from home for that exact reason and it kept me from requiring hospitalisation. See what’s in our first aid kit HERE.
- Stick with the local cuisine. Street food is fine. I’m nearly certain that the thing that made me so sick was dining at a western restaurant.
- Yes the traffic is crazy but just be confident and act defensively and you’ll be fine.
- Download the GRAB app on your phone so that you can book transport hassle free.
- Plan ahead and organise pick ups from the train station and airports. Those places are the most hectic and overwhelming. You’ll avoid the heckling by waiting taxis and save money by agreeing on a price when you’re not jet lagged and travel weary.
- Be aware of the burning season. Id strongly recommend you don’t travel during this time.
Vietnam is a stunning country and one month was never going to be long enough. The people are so incredibly charming, the food outstanding and the scenery breath taking.
The Whole of Us 
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